2017 marks the second year we’ve celebrated Memorial Day by attending a cycling event that traverses some of the routes the Allied forces of WWII took to liberate Europe beginning on D-Day; June 1944. While last year’s event was in Normandy, France, this year we found ourselves in Bastogne, Belgium representing America in the “Voie de la Liberté”; a three day cycling event covering well over 200 miles of territory and retraces areas where the Axis and Allies battled. Some of them marked by memorial statues, graves, fox holes, and other reminders of those dark days. For me, the experience was a mix of emotions; first as an excited cyclist getting to ride in such a beautiful and renowned area of the world. Second, as a former soldier with a modest military background including a combat tour of duty in the Light Infantry. I have only the slightest idea of what the warriors of our greatest generation endured. It is a necessary reminder of the sacrifices made to overcome evil, but it’s also an opportunity to come together with great people from multiple countries to celebrate freedom, ride bikes, and enjoy loads of Belgian Beer!
The day before the event started, we arrived at ‘Le Centre Sportif Porte de Trèves Bastogne’ in downtown Bastogne to pick up our registration packets. As luck would have it, there was a bar located in the lobby of this renowned fitness center. There, we rediscovered a wonderful Belgian beer called ‘Lupulus’; an Ardennes blonde ale that we fondly remember from our previous travels. And, like then, we found it on tap!
From there, we settled into our hotel room and headed off to our first dinner location; Wagon Leo. Not only was it one of two notable dining experiences we had during our stay in Bastogne, Wagon Leo was also a major sponsor of the cycling event!
This fine Belgian establishment is well known for its upscale cuisine. I started with a Tuna tartar appetizer that was very flavorful and light
Then I decided to follow that up with a veal based dish that was also very delightful
After a lovely dinner in a great restaurant, it was lights out in anticipation of our journey ahead.
Day 1 of our tour took us from Bastogne to Arlon and back. We covered 142km (88 miles) of territory characterized by rolling hills, lush green forestry, and fairly rough pavement!
I was feeling rather excited about the whole thing as we got started, and it was the first time I brought my new custom Cannondale CAAD12 on a multi-day vacation ride!
The Strava profile below shows our route and the elevation profile (Bastogne-Arlon-Bastogne)
By the end of the first day, I was very worn out, but I didn’t want anyone to notice
Day two of our trip took us from Bastogne to Wiltz and back.
While it was another beautiful day in the saddle, the peloton was scheduled to attend a memorial event once in Wiltz. But the Mayor (and Master of Ceremonies) did not show up, so we stood around for a little while then broke for lunch in a large tent area where beer was served while we waited in line!
Following the conclusion of this 125.8km (78 mile) day, we ate in McAuliffe Square.
It was a simple meal of pizza and Belgian Beer; this time a Leffe Radieuse.
Afterwards, however, we headed to the famous Le Nuts Cafe; also located in McAuliffe Square.
It was here that I discovered a Belgian beer I had only heard of once before yet always wanted to try; Airborne Beer! I loved how the beer is served in little cups shaped like the WWII helmets our GI’s wore!
Day 3 of our tour took us north of Bastogne with no major stops and ending as all our routes ended; back in Bastogne.
Along the way, we took a break at what I thought was a local school. And in the front of the school, parked on the grass, was a double-decker bus that turned out to be some kind of mobile restaurant. I was close, unfortunately, but I took the opportunity to take a snap of my bike against the bus.
At the end of the route, we had a lovely ceremony at a newly installed memorial to all the fallen who liberated Belgium. It was a wonderful tribute that put a lovely cap on an otherwise memorable cycling trip to Bastogne.
Following that great ride (where my front tire ripped in the last 30km of the course) we headed off to our second memorable dining experience at 222. This lovely French restaurant had a lovely interior décor and food to match.
I started off with some kind of lovely seafood ball. Not only was it very tasty, it looked quite artistic.
Following that course, I opted for a nice cod fish plate that I found light and delicious. It went well with the white wine that was recommended to us.
At the end of the day, we retired to the hotel to rest up for the return trip to our home in Germany. A fitting end to a truly memorable trip. Bastogne is an old town, yet very modern and quite active. There is lots to see and do; especially if you want to cycle.
I’m so happy we met so many great people from across Europe and America. HI STOFFEL!!
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